Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a select roster of global cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it joins a international community of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old culinary traditions and vibrant gastronomic culture," according to a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city is hardly a shock to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the global gaze for what has perennially defined its essence: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a continued discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden treasures that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and involved. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however note that their children are reluctant to take up the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to learn these tales and travel to the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
